One of the things I most enjoy doing is learning about different cultures and participating in popular cultural events. After many years suppressed by the Franco regime, Catalan culture has seen quite a revival in the past two to three decades and the region abound with festivals and customs that differentiate it from the rest of Spain.
Every town and, in the case of larger cities like Barcelona, every neighbourhood has its Festa Major, an event that can take a whole week and for which the local people prepare all year. We witnessed a few so far – we saw the giants parade in St Pol de Mar, attended several days of the Festa Major de Gracia, and last wednesday went to see some of the Festa Major de Vilafranca del Penedes, one of the most authentic and considered of national interest.
August 30th is considered particularly important during the week-long Festa Major de Vilafranca since it’s the feast day of its patron saint – St Felix. It is also the day when the Colla Castellera de Vilafranca, the best in Catalunya, gives its most anticipated performance. While the rest of Spain praise the individual courage of the bullfighter, the Catalans value the collective efforts and organization of its castellers. Basically groups of up to
400 1000 people, they build human towers (castles) up to 10 storeys high. The castells (castles in Catalan) are referred to by the number of people at the core of the structure and the number of storeys they reach. On wednesday the Vilafranca group successfully completed a tres de deu amb folre i manilles (three of ten with folre and manilles), basically a ten-storey castle with three people on each floor and two extra bases (the folre and manilla). This was only the second time it had ever been done. You can see the video of the first attempt at their site. It is VERY impressive.
Jargon – there are pillars, torres and castells. Pillars have only one person per storey and they usually walk into the square in this formation:
A pillar of two people per storey is called a torre. This is the first torre of seven done by the Vilafranca group, back in 1969:
A castell has more than three people per storey. Nine storeys is as high as they get with only the Vilafranca group ever having done one of ten. At the base of the castell is the pinya. An extra base above that level is called a folre and the very high ones often need an extra one on top of the folre, the manilla. Castellers are of all ages – from 6 to 80 – and the younger and lighter go to the top. The star of the show is the anxaneta, a 6-9 year old that crowns the castell. The castell is only considered complete when the anxaneta gets to the top and raises his/her hand. That moment is indescribeable – you have to look at the videos at the site above to get a better sense.
Here are some pictures of the events on wednesday:
This one was impressive – it was a four of nine with needle (quatre de nou amb l’agulla). Basically, a four of nine castells – hard in itself – that when undone reveals a pillar in the middle:
Preparing the pillar in the staging area:
After what we saw there, I have to agree with the writing on the wall:
Other major events include the Festa Major de Barcelona on the 14 Sept, then a great competition in Tarragona on 1 Oct and the Festa Major de Girona in November. Can’t wait!!!
Observação para os meus leitores brasileiros – como vocês nunca deixam recado aqui, não sei se realmente visitam esse blog. Me avisem se querem que eu coloque alguma versão em português.